The Aftermath of Lima: 7 Takeaways About Travel and The Wonderful Peruvian Capital
Alexandra and Sherry standing on the streets in Lima, Peru.
Depending on how well personalities match up, it sometimes takes extra finesse to travel with others. This was my third trip to Lima, and I’m so glad to report it was a great success. This time, I went with my sister-in-law and a good friend with the plan to visit my daughter Alexandra, who is a resident. I can report I’ve learned a few things about traveling with others as well as how to be a tourist in this interesting South American city, which I’ll share here.
1. ESTABLISH PREFERENCES EARLY
It makes sense to consider the sightseeing options ahead of time as well as the types of things you’re interested in doing, especially when working with others. In our case, we each fell to slightly different points on the spectrum of interests, so establishing goals ahead was great.
I’d say this Thrillist article “21 Foolproof Ways to Be the Worst Travel Companion Ever” is ESSENTIAL reading for those prepping to travel with a group. It’s good for a snort and giggle as you see yourself in some of the points (I know I did), and there are some pretty important things to consider in this article, too.
For example, I prefer to start of kind of slow in the morning and enjoy a breakfast and some coffee before I head out. When Alexandra and I traveled to Lima together for the first time years ago, this was an issue she discovered about me, and I probably whined more than necessary about it. However, by this trip the morning was a known “thing,” and something I had in common with the rest of the travelers, so we were all prepared for this preference and went with the flow.
Personal inclinations are fair game for discussion prior to traveling with others. Hopefully everyone’s goal is to stretch a bit outside their comfort zones, but it is a vacation and comes with some expectations of rest and relaxation as well. Identify the activities you’d most like to do and establish your preferences for eating, waking and walking—and then be flexible when things change, as they often do when traveling.
2. AIRBNB IN LIMA IS GREAT
I’ve now been fortunate to enjoy two stays in an Airbnb. Each time Alexandra secured the keys ahead of our arrival and even stocked the fridge for us. (We are spoiled!) Each space we’ve rented has been lovely, and it helps to have a whole apartment to yourself to lounge and relax in between long days of sightseeing and walking.
Thus far, each flight to and from Lima has involved either a very late arrival and/or an extremely early departure on return. I highly recommend reserving your Airbnb for both your arrival and departure dates, even if you won’t be there the full night. Having the space after regular check-out time for final packing, rest and showers is well worth it, since accommodations are often affordably priced.
3. TRAVEL WITH SOMEONE WHO SPEAKS THE LANGUAGE
Unlike some of my European travel experiences, Lima has proven to not be a city of high tourism. In fact, you can expect to encounter few Peruvians in your transactions who speak conversational English. I’ve been fortunate to pass each my visits with Alexandra, who is fluent and also knows the customs of the people in her new home. If you can manage enough Spanish on your own, that will go a long way, but consider finding a trusted guide if you are limited in the language of Spanish.
4. TRAFFIC: EXPECT IT
Unless you live in a large urban area and know a thing or two about traffic, prepare to be amazed by Lima’s congested rhythm. In this city with more than 9 million inhabitants, even if you think you know traffic, you can still expect to witness an astonishing sight. I marvel by how drivers, scooters and motorcyclists whiz and swish around each other, and yet in all my trips I’ve never witnessed an accident or heard a fender-bender.
Drivers seem to understand the organism that is their complex infrastructure, intuitively giving way and taking their turn on cue. I’ve personally not ventured onto busses in Lima because they always look super full, so I prefer walking and taking Uber for the most part.
Again, in things-traffic we benefited from Alexandra and her efficiency. With the app and her grasp of direction, she always secured an Uber in minutes and we were safely on our way. I do understand there are issues with Uber that vary from city to city, but for Lima it seems like a safe and easy way to get around, and better than trying to haggle with the standard meter-less taxi drivers.
5. KNOW YOUR DISTRICTS IN LIMA
Without apology I acknowledge that I travel in Lima as a tourist and benefit with a trusty guide and resident. My daughter helped keep us safe and on-track for enjoying the city by way of a flexible schedule that focused around which neighborhood we’d be in when.
My experiences in Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco have always left me feeling safe. To be sure, there is crushing poverty around the outskirts of the city, which you can witness from areas such as the historic center of Lima. The area near the airport also reveals pockets of poverty and larger crowds where it is best to keep to yourself and be aware of your surroundings.
As with every place, and large cities in particular, know what to do to stay safe and review complete and recent advisements such as this one over at Lonely Planet.
It’s noteworthy that in the districts where I’ve spent most of my time, I never witnessed disorderly conduct. No drunken or drugged people meandering or panhandling in the parks or on the streets. I don’t know what this portends about the culture and people of Lima in general, but I noted it.
The most ruckus crowd we witnessed was a HUGE gathering preparing to enter Estadio Nacional for a football game. We had just stepped out of our Uber to head into the Park of the Reserve when we found ourselves surrounded by enthusiasts letting off fireworks. Even then, although we were in the Lima District, I didn’t feel unsafe, simply scurried along to get out of the congestion.
6. EAT WELL
No apologies and no judging needed if you head to Lima to eat well. There are so many fabulous places to try. What invariably happens is that you may encounter restaurant burnout and just want to opt for a night in your Airbnb to give the calories you acquire a rest.
My favorite restaurant experience on this trip was the Japanese Peruvian fusion place named Kaikan. The presentation of our dishes was gorgeous, and the food was exceptional. I’ll be recalling my ramen dish for months and perhaps years to come.
And the thing is that eating well is inexpensive in Lima, too. Four of us had entrees and shared a couple of appetizers, plus we each had a couple of beers and shared a sake tasting sampler. The total price with 20% gratuity included was about $80.
Other noteworthy dishes include the roasted chicken that is cooked over an open flame. The method makes for the most delectable chicken dishes. One night we even opted for a chicken cooked this way from the grocery store, and it was fabulous. I’d recommend visiting a restaurant that specializes in this roasted chicken (called “pollo a la brasa”), as there are many.
Other dishes that get buzz are ceviche and anticuchos (cow heart), but I’m a bit finicky on some of these options (petulant inner child at work). However, I would unabashedly recommend the dish lomo saltado, which is stir fried beef with onions and tomatoes in a sauce over French fries and rice. I never get enough of that, and order it often!
7. SHOP WELL
I finish up with what I personally like doing the least on vacation, which is shopping. I find it overwhelming. But I know it is fun for others and helps boost the local economy, so here is my take.
There is a myriad of boutique shops to explore, particularly in Miraflores and San Isidro, but I’d recommend taking a turn in the Inca Market located in the Miraflores District. This is a tourist shoppers delight with hundreds of vendor stalls set up in a centralized location selling all the items that one associates with Andean and Amazonian Peru, including Angora yarn and items made from it, jewelry and all manner of housewares. Haggling is to be expected and the only thing to alert those who buy is to be sure what you purchase is local rather than something made in China.
Lima is a fabulous city which has apparently made headway in becoming a destination since the early 2000s. We plan to make annual trips to spend time with our daughter, but it is worth the trip on its own merits. Just a thought, I think it would be a great place to hole up during the Midwestern winter months of January and February when it just happens to be summer there. Wear sunscreen, take a hat, and hire a guide when you go!
Looking for something to do with friends and family to gather and share stories when you are together on vacation or just a great time together? Check out Tell Me Another, the storytelling game that Alexandra and I created for our Storied Gifts Shop.
Alexandra and Sherry, 2016
Sherry is the founder of Storied Gifts a personal publishing service of family and company histories. She and her team help clients curate and craft their stories into books. When not writing or interviewing, Sherry spends loads of time with her grandchildren and lives in Des Moines, Iowa.
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